Scoma’s: San Francisco’s Seafood Landmark

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By Kimberly Toms.

Upon walking into Scoma’s, the circa-1965 seafood landmark on Pier 47 in San Francisco, one immediately notes the dated interior of post-Kennedy restaurant décor. The combination of medium and dark woods, red vinyl buffet chairs and general architectural flow-through is reminiscent of lounges and coffee shops of the pre-Aquarian age. You almost expect the Rat Pack to saunter through, on their way to some off-bar, private, smoke-filled room, to enjoy surf and turf, martinis, and perhaps a little Marilyn.

Look beyond the initially obvious. Note the view from your table (albeit very close to your neighboring tables), through large, single-pane glass windows. What you see beyond the structure’s walls is the San Francisco you either traveled so far to visit, or the one that keeps you there as “home.” Bringing yourself back from the panorama of water, small yachts, sailboats, and skyline, settle in and ready yourself for succulent seafood, local vegetables, fresh mozzarella and Painted Hills natural beef. This is food that will make you forget the less-than sumptuous ambiance.

Once a coffee shop on Fisherman’s Wharf, Scoma’s was reincarnated after purchase by Al and Joe Scoma. This view, this position on the pier and water, this real estate should never have been for mere coffee, sandwiches and donuts. The location was prime for creation of a great San Francisco culinary tradition that is a 350-seat restaurant, serving about half a million diners each year. Armed with their mother’s recipe collection, the brothers’ vision became reality and is now one of the highest volume independent restaurants in the United States.

As seafood is off-loaded directly from fishing boats every morning from 8:00 a.m. to 10:30 a.m., the public can watch the beginnings of daily fresh catch preparation, at the restaurant’s Fish Receiving Station. Scoma’s cutters inspect the seafood to ensure top quality, then fillet, trim and prepare each fish for the journey to oven and plate.

Just how much fish does an authentic fresh-catch restaurant of Scoma’s caliber utilize? Well, according to Purchasing Director Kelly Bennett, 500 pounds of crab, 50 pounds of salmon, 70 pounds of clams, 85 pounds of scallops, 50 pounds of shrimp, 40 pounds of Ahi tuna, and 100 pounds each of prawns, calamari, and swordfish are fed to guests each day! All of that, plus 175 loaves of San Franciscan sourdough bread, hit white-tablecloth dining tables for lunch and dinner before each night’s closing.

Scoma's Executive Chef Steve Scarabosio has worked the renowned restaurant's kitchen and cuisine for 24 years.

Steve Scarabosio has been the Executive Chef for almost 7 years. He started as a line cook in the Scoma’s kitchen in 1984, after graduation from the Hotel and Restaurant Program at San Francisco’s City College. Truly working his way up from the lower position, Steve learned each line position as he acclimated to maintaining the Scoma family vision, all the while infusing the traditions of his own cooking heritage. Soon, he was promoted to Sous Chef, then Executive Sous Chef. Finally, in 2002, Steve took the helm.

We started our journey into the menu with a sampling of several appetizers. Fried Oysters with Wasabi Aioli, Calamari Fritti, and Mini Crabcakes were very pleasantly presented – and even more so – very pleasantly ingested. To counterbalance the fried seafood starters, Scarabosio served a Caprese Salad with tomatoes grown in his own garden, and a “Black and Blue” Ahi  (spice crusted and seared rare) with a hydroponic Watercress Salad.

For the main course, house-made Lobster Ravioli in a Lemon and Saffron Cream Sauce with spinach and fresh tomatoes was served, along with Swordfish Piccata. Improvements simply could not be made.

For dessert (and you must leave room), a wide selection of decadence is available, courtesy a sampling of delightful sweet-tooth fare. But, you must have the house specialty, a Tiramisu that Chef Scarabosio developed from an original Italian recipe passed through the generations of his family. Served in a coffee cup with a chocolate spoon, it wonderfully closes a meal fit for locals hungry for the fresh catch, or out-of-towners seeking a landmark San Franciscan culinary experience.

Scoma’s is located at the west end of Fisherman’s Wharf at Pier 47, on Al Scoma Way. Complimentary valet parking is available, subject to availability. You may view the menu at www.scomas.com.

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